Goodwill Tour of New Jersey with Ruby

Goodwill is a wonderful organization that not only recycles more than two billion pounds of clothing and household goods every year , but creates job-training opportunities for people in need of work. Above, Lumberton, NJ.

Ruby was off from school this week and was desperate to get out of town, even if just for the day. I agreed that a road trip was in order, and since we love to thrift shop, I thought it would be fun to hit all the Goodwills between New York and Philly, get a cheese steak at Jim’s Steaks in Philly and get back to the city by dinnertime.

Book display, Maple Shade, NJ

There are nine Goodwill stores between New York and Philly (all in NJ), and I laid them out in order so we could systematically punch one address after another into the GPS. Ruby decided against Jersey City (too picked over) and Newark (she and her dad once got lost there on the way to Great Adventure and she insisted Newark was too “scary.”) We didn’t go to Harrison, Trenton or Springfield because we got hungry and I developed what I call “shopping arm” (when my arm gets sore from the repetitive motion of pushing hangers right to left.) And Ewing Township didn’t answer their phone, so we skipped it.

I couldn't help but consider a 70s Robert Plant poster shellacked on wood. I passed because it had water damage.

But we did make it to four Goodwills: East Brunswick, Lumberton, Maple Shade and Pennsauken. All were similar in terms of merchandise (lots of faded 80s black cotton sweaters, mismatched china and VHS tapes) but wildly different in style and size. All were surprisingly crowded. And all had more than a few customers using supermarket-sized shopping carts (which Ruby and I, being incredibly selective, couldn’t believe were necessary.)

East Brunswick, NJ

East Brunswick, our first stop, had a tiny storefront in a mini-mall that was called, “The Village Green” (only in suburbia.) The first thing I noticed was a huge Easter display in the window, and nearby, a collection of garish Christmas sweaters, which of course we weren’t interested in purchasing but bears mentioning (thrift stores offer holiday merchandise year round.) We were complimented on our selections more than once by the Juno-esque cashier. And we were thrilled to discover that not only was everything with a red tag 50% off, but Ruby got an extra 15% off with her student ID (which we took advantage of at the other Goodwills as well.) Score: 5 items for $18.11.

One of the distracting employees in Lumberton, NJ

Lumberton was next. I was hoping to see a historic house that was a stop on the Underground Railroad, but we couldn’t find the address on the internet. My disappointment quickly subsided, however, when I saw how enormous the Lumberton Goodwill was. And appropriately, Bon Jovi was playing. And although the salespeople certainly weren’t cute OR young like our cashier in East Brunswick, they carried on the funniest (to me, not to them) conversations, which distracted me (I followed one employee around the store for about 10 minutes just to get a photo of her crazy hair style for my friend David.) Score: 4 items for $9.22 (I passed on the Galician microwave potato chip maker, which I now regret.)

Maple Shade, NJ

Maple Shade was the smallest Goodwill, but very well-organized and oddly, “decorated” by an employee who obviously took great pride in “their” store. Score: 3 items for $2.65.

Maple Shade, NJ. Was I the only one who thought of Sartre when I saw this "No Exit" sign surrounded by old vinyl, or did a clever employee do it on purpose?

By the time we got to Pennsauken, we were burned out and very hungry, so it was no surprise that we didn’t score anything (also, being so close to Philly, it seemed even more crowded than the others and therefore more picked over.)

Pennsauken, NJ

We flew through Cherry Hill (no Goodwill), Camden (no Goodwill), over the Ben Franklin Bridge and into Philly and were eating cheesesteaks within half an hour (Score: 2 huge cheese steaks for $15.) Of course, we checked out some vintage stores in Philly but the prices were higher (when you call a store “vintage” rather than “thrift,” the prices go up) and we didn’t find anything we liked anyway.

We felt as tired as this guy, whose wife was focused on linens, after a while.

Our bargains (average price: $2.50 per item) were well worth the trouble of poring over racks of freakishly unstylish clothing. I got a sweet 70s ruffled cotton peasant top, an 80s bias cut skirt and an 80s black stretch top. Ruby got great stuff, including an 80s embroidered ethnic vest, an 80s floral stretch dress and a little leather purse. Next Goodwill tour: Connecticut.

The reward for all our hard work: Cheese Steaks at Jim's on South Street.

Posted in "vintage is green", Cheese steaks, chelsea girl, elisa casas, Goodwill, Sustainable clothing, thrift, vintage clothing | 1 Comment

Vintage at the Baftas and (not so much) at the Grammys

Gillian Anderson looked lovely in a 1960s gown by Irish designer Sybil Connolly at the Baftas.

There’s no question that the Brits are way ahead of us when it comes to embracing sustainable clothing. They’re more responsible, less wasteful and more likely to wear vintage, even for important events. Vintage was all over the red carpet at the Baftas last night…but not at all visible at the Grammys, where Adele, Rihanna, Katy Perry and others indulged in vintage “looks” but didn’t go as far as actually wearing authentic vintage clothing.

Taylor Swift performing, "Mean" at the Grammys.

Taylor Swift did choose to dress herself (and her band) in vintage while performing the retro, bluegrass-influenced, “Mean.” And I did have a request from Band Perry’s stylist to outfit the band in vintage items from Chelsea Girl (they ended up not wearing vintage.)

Bonnie Wright from the "Harry Potter" movies looked sweet in no-name vintage.

Although I’m disappointed in the Grammy red-carpet choices (a somewhat “edgy” awards show should have a few people experimenting with vintage), I’m thrilled that the Brits are not only embracing vintage clothing, but consciously promoting sustainability and our responsibility to do what’s best for this planet. See Bafta vintage red carpet highlights below:

Songwriter Emeli Sande in vintage Jean Claude.

Presenter Claudia Winkleman in a classic 1970 Ossie Clark black gown.

Edith Bowman in an ill-fitting Dior gown. At least she tried!

Dawn Porter (with boyfriend Chris O'Dowd) in vintage Dior.

Posted in "vintage is green", baftas, baftas best dressed, baftas vintage, bonnie wright, chelsea girl, claudia winkleman, dawn porter, edith bowman, elisa casas, gillian anderson, grammys, grammys best dressed, grammys vintage, Livia Firth, red carpet, sybil connolly, taylor swift, vintage clothing, vintage dior, wear vintage | Leave a comment

Vintage on the Red Carpet at the S.A.G. Awards

The S.A.G Awards always seems like the most fun awards ceremony: actors drinking champagne at their cliquey tables, heaping praise on each other in a mutual admiration frenzy. I imagine how difficult it was to continue to pursue their dream despite all the toil and rejection, and how they’re finally getting the accolades they have always craved…and from their peers. It’s especially nice to hear the modest ones (who gush with pride at being an actor) as they accept their awards. I liked watching it this year, even though I can’t stand movies like, “The Help.”

Tina Fey in vintage Versace.

Unfortunately, no one wore vintage except Tina Fey (I did get excited when I saw Rose Byrne’s white Elie Saab jumpsuit, inspired by Michelle Pfeiffer in “Scarface,” which was described as “vintage” in the press, but was actually from 2009.) Tina, however, wore a gorgeous vintage Versace gown that looked flattered her immensely. The internet was buzzing that she finally “got it right” by wearing a dress that was sexier than her previous choices at other awards shows. We’re thrilled that she made the “green” choice and hope she continues to!

The funniest part of the awards was when the "Bridesmaids" girls discussed the rules of their "Scorcese" drinking game. Kristen Wiig is a Chelsea Girl customer and we'd love to see her in vintage!

Posted in "vintage is green", chelsea girl, elisa casas, red carpet, SAG awards, tina fey, vintage clothing | Leave a comment

Sustainable Dresses at the Golden Globes

So it’s the morning after the Golden Globes, and the Best and Worst Dressed Lists are already available on the internet. We all seem to agree that Angelina and Charlize looked gorgeous, and that Sarah Michelle Gellar and Jessica Biel got some really bad fashion advice (Sarah Michelle bragged…bragged!…that her 2-year-old daughter picked out her dress) and yawn, as usual there’s controversy about Madonna (I thought she looked awesome.) But for me, the question is always, “Who wore vintage?” Sadly, none of the big stars did this year.

Sarah got a lot of attention because the zipper broke on her vintage gown while she was walking the red carpet. Luckily a team of handlers swooped in and fixed it quickly. Oh, the perils of wearing vintage!

However, two celebs were wearing vintage on the red carpet, one to great advantage and one using very poor judgment. Sarah Hyland (from “Modern Family”) wore a beautiful vintage Dolce and Gabbana lace gown which suited her quite well, and Connie Britton (from “Friday Night Lights” and “Spin City”) wore a way-too-casual vintage Italian dress that was dull and washed her out. (And what was up with her messy hair?) Still, I’m glad she made a “green” choice.

Its a shame Connie Britton chose this inappropriate dress when there are so many sexy vintage gowns to choose from!

The person who I was most interested in was Livia Firth, wife of Colin Firth. Livia writes for Vogue UK and has a blog called “The Green Carpet Challenge” where she promotes green clothing options and discusses her outfit selections on the red carpet.

Elegant dress, simple hair and makeup and the best accessory of all, Academy Award winner Colin Firth.

Livia is a customer of mine. I love her down-to-earth demeanor and her passion for vintage clothing, and I appreciate how she’s making “green” clothing choices whenever possible (often wearing vintage and even donning items more than once to awards shows.) For the Golden Globes, she asked Giorgio Armani to design a dress for her that was sustainable, and he created a gorgeous gown that was made from the fibers of recycled plastic bottles. The dress was stunning. I hope celebrities take note that the clothing choices we make have the power to make a positive impact on our planet.

Photo of Livia and me, from her blog. She's modeling the 1960s Givenchy jacket she bought from us.

Livia blogged about Chelsea Girl when she shopped with us last year. She bought a fabulous 1960s Givenchy wool crepe jacket and discussed her blog with me. It was a pleasure to spend time with her and I hope to work with her in the future since we both seem to have a passion for promoting green clothing. Can’t wait to see what she wears to the Oscars!

For coverage of the best and worst dressed, visit E! Online.

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Thrifting With Ruby

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Beacon's Closet on 13th Street.

Most of my wardrobe comes from thrift stores, vintage stores, and eBay. I do buy new clothing from time to time (jeans, for example, since vintage ones just don’t fit me properly) but avoid it when I can. The items in my closet that I fall out of love with get recycled: resold, traded, or donated.

Beacon’s Closet is awesome. I shouldn’t even call it a thrift shop because it’s nothing like the anachronistic thrift shops I grew up with: it’s actually a shop that has a modern approach to buying and selling used clothing. You bring them a bag of clothing you don’t want anymore, they give you a store credit and then you get to shop for free. The pieces they don’t want you can leave behind for donation. This method of guilt-free shopping thrills me. You spend zero money, go home with “new” clothing, responsibly recycle and donate to a good cause. Those extravagant afternoons at Barneys have become a distant memory (and I don’t miss them at all.)

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Christopher Fischer embroidered cashmere sweater (originally $375) and a 1970s hand-embroidered sweater ($14 at Beacon's.)

Ruby, my 17-year-old daughter, was actually the one who turned me on to Beacon’s Closet. It thrills me that she’s passionate about thrifting because it’s really fun to do it together. She’s committed to the whole thrifting lifestyle: she belongs to an online clothing swap at her school, searches for (discounted) designer jeans on eBay and won’t even buy a new book. Maybe growing up in mommy’s vintage clothing store had something to do with it.

Yesterday Ruby and I brought a bag of old stuff to Beacon’s, got a $75 credit, and with it bought a gorgeous puff-sleeved 70s blazer ($17), a Christopher Fischer cashmere sweater ($24) with a hand-embroidered owl on it (I have a thing for owls), a white crochet sweater ($15) and a pair of Sigerson Morrison shoes ($25). Ok, so I ended up spending $17, but in New York there’s not even tax on items under $55!

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Marc Jacobs is very clever to print the required, "Made in China" label in difficult-to-read black on black. DVF prints it in French so maybe Americans don't understand, or at least think it's chic.

Ruby has the same shopping philosophy as me (shopping requires concentration and is best done alone) so once inside we split up and remind each other to “look for stuff for me, too!” (Grunge dresses for me, oversized cashmere cardigans for her.) True, like any thrift shop, you have to look through lots of other people’s fashion faux pas to find a gem, but Beacon’s is curated by hipsters so it seems that you always do.

I couldn’t help but notice that 90% of the items I looked at were made in China (even those from my beloved DVF, who manufactured her iconic wrap dresses in Italy in the 70s.) A whopping 1/3 of all apparel imports in the U.S. come from China, and unfortunately it’s impossible to know the details of how responsibly these items are manufactured. I hope people will become more aware of the benefits (financial, environmental, and social) of purchasing vintage and used clothing, especially when there are stores like Beacon’s Closet that make “thrift” shopping such a pleasant experience.

I've always loved the Betsey Johnson punk label from the 80s and coming across it at Beacon's Closet brought back memories of my NYU days. My friend Nancy and I had matching Betsey fingerless gloves that we wore with matching black dusters from Ibiza (I still have my gloves.) I didn't buy the glittery bustier because it was in poor condition, but since the label was hanging by just a thread (see photo), I took it. What can I say, I'm nostalgic.

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Happy Holidays from New York City!

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Your Slavery Footprint

Yes, apparently we’ve all got one. By purchasing certain products that are manufactured overseas, or buying agricultural items that are grown in foreign countries, we’re supporting slavery, including child slavery. Take this survey to understand what your personal “slavery footprint” is.

These are the locations where I am apparently employing slaves.

An excellent way of reducing your slavery footprint and doing something beneficial to both people and the planet is buying vintage (or secondhand) clothing. When I took the survey without estimating the percentage of vintage clothing and jewelry that I own, I had a slavery footprint of 66. When I replaced what I had originally counted as “new” items with vintage, which is more accurate, my slavery footprint went down to 42.

I urge you to take the survey and although it is simplistic and not entirely accurate, you will get an idea of how the items we purchase have a permanent and negative impact in the world.

Posted in "vintage is green", chelsea girl, elisa casas, slavery footprint, vintage clothing, wear vintage | Leave a comment

Are Child Slaves Making Your Victoria’s Secret Underwear?

Bloomberg Markets Magazine reports that underage, mistreated African children have been forced to plant and pick organic, fair-trade cotton used in Victoria Secret’s underwear.

Bloomberg highlights the “nightmare” of 13-year-old Clarisse Kambire (video) and six other children who work on organic-cotton farms in Burkina Faso and sell their crops to Victoria’s Secret. The report says child labor “is endemic” to the production of cotton, the country’s chief export crop.

Besides the fact that they look absolutely ridiculous, these Victoria Secret models are condoning the abuse of African children. Not so glamorous, is it, Gisele?

Paying lucrative premiums for organic and fair-trade cotton has created fresh incentives for exploitation. The program has attracted subsistence farmers who say they don’t have the resources to grow fair-trade cotton without violating a central principle of the movement: forcing other people’s children into their fields.

Victoria’s Secret is engaging in child abuse to make money; it’s that simple. Having now been “outed,” Victoria’s Secret and its parent brand, The Limited, are suitably outraged and vow to do an investigation. The simple truth is, big corporations don’t care about the well-being of children because their consumers don’t care. When people like you and I spend our dollars accordingly, when the celebrity lingerie models refuse to model, when VS employees move on to “greener” companies, and when their bottom line is affected, that’s when they’ll start to care.

Not Victoria Secret models; child laborers in Burkina Faso.

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“Wearing Nothing New”

Although I wouldn’t advocate for shopping quite as much as she seems to, I just love Jessi’s enlightened philosophy and feisty attitude about buying and wearing used clothing:

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…so you think cotton is better than polyester?

Polyester was invented in 1951 and caught on in an era that was obsessed with anything "new." It was easy to care for (washable and wrinkle-resistant) and inexpensive.

It would seem that buying clothing made of natural fibers, like cotton, are better for the environment than buying clothing made of man-made materials like polyester. But that’s not exactly true. Here is a rundown of how the most common clothing materials affect our environment:

Polyester, the most commonly used manufactured fiber, is made from petroleum in an energy-intensive process that emits organic compounds (VOCs) and acid gases into the air. The process also uses a large amount of water.

Nylon emits nitrous oxide during its manufacture. Nitrous oxide is a greenhouse gas with a carbon footprint 310 times that of carbon dioxide.

Rayon (viscose), derived from wood pulp, often relies on clearing old growth forests to make way for water-hungry eucalyptus trees, from which the fiber is harvested.

Polyester was also wildy popular during the disco era.

Cotton, the most common clothing material, is the most pesticide-dependent crop in the world. It takes one-third of a pound of pesticides to make one t-shirt. In addition, the chemicals used to manufacture cotton remain in the fabric and are released throughout the lifetime of the garment. If the cotton is genetically modified, there are even more environmental issues.

Leather‘s dying and tanning process releases chemicals into the water supply, not to mention the animal rights issued associated with its manufacture.

PVC, which has become a commonly used material, is derived from chlorine. The manufacture of chlorine is incredibly toxic to wildlife, humans and the ecosystem.

Polyester, nylon and PVC are non-biodegradable, so they’re unsustainable on two counts.

Read labels. The best choices are organic cotton, hemp, bamboo, linen, and organic wool . If you’re just crazy about polyester, though, don’t despair: recycled polyester is also a green choice. And of course if you choose vintage over new clothing, you’re doing the best thing possible for the environment, regardless of the item’s fabrication.

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